Fitz Roy Peak
Argentina, Santa Cruz Province

Fitzroy is a peak with a height of 3 405 meters, located in the Patagonian Andes, in the border region between Argentina and Chile. The mountain has many other names: Cerro Chaltén, which means Tehuelche means “smoking or smoking mountain” and Cerro Fitz Roy. The name "steaming mountain" was most likely given because of a veil of clouds, which often almost completely hides sticking sharp peaks. Near the peak of Fitzroy there are peaks: Cerro Poincenot, Rafael (Aguja Rafael) and Saint Exupery (Aguja Saint Exupery). Right there, nearby is another world famous peak group - the Cerro Torre group. Discovered by Fitzroy was relatively recently, in 1877, Francisco Moreno, during his travels in Patagonia. The summit was named after the Governor General of New Zealand, the founder and head of the Meteorological Department, Robert Fitzroy, captain of the Beagle British ten-gun brig-sloop, who made a huge contribution to the study of the coast of Patagonia. The steep slopes of the Fitzroy peak are formed by unstable mushroom-shaped layers of snow and ice. Some sections of the mountain slopes are granite rocks. In addition, weather conditions, which are very rare to climb the peaks, present considerable difficulty for climbers. Therefore, despite the relatively small height, in comparison with other famous mountain peaks, Fitzroy is considered one of the most difficult peaks in the world for climbing. Despite repeated attempts, Fitzroy stood unconquered until the middle of the last century, although as if a magnet attracted many climbers. The first climb to Fitzroy was made by the French Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone on February 2, 1952. It was a route laid along the Southeast Ridge. The mountain has repeatedly submitted to climbers. It was attended by: Argentines Carlos Comesaña and José Luis Fonrouge, Americans Dick Dorworth, Chris Jones, Douglas Tompkins, Dan Potter and Dean Potter Colin Haley An interesting fact is that Potter and Haley conquered Fitzroy in 2002 and 2009, respectively, while the other predecessors climbed to the top back in the 60s of the last century. The modern classic route is a variant of the first ascent route. It includes a 600 meter climbing section along the Southeast ridge. This route is the most popular among climbers, although 15 independent routes have been laid since the first climb to the top. The most famous routes are: “California” (along the Southwest Ridge), which has long been a classic, and the “Supercanelate” route along the Northwest Wall. For the first time, American climbers Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell (February 12-16, 2014) went through the complete traverse of the Fitzroy mountain range. Fitzroy is still an alluring and irresistible peak for many, many climbers. Anyone who has visited the base of Fitzroy at least once will never forget how striking the mountain is with its grandeur and severe beauty. Fitzroy is a popular tourist destination. The most popular tourist routes from the village of El Chaltén. This is a tiny provincial town lost in the mountains in three streets, which is a kind of capital of the northern part of Los Glaciares National Park. From here along the northern part of the Los Glaciares National Park, several hiking trails begin, up to 18 kilometers long. In addition, groups are formed here for multi-day trips to the lakes: Laguna de los Tres (Laguna de los Tres), Laguna Torre (Laguna Torre). Amateur climbers are offered a technically simple climb to the nearby Cerro Eléctrico peak. Admission to the Los Glaciares National Park is free. Climbing to the top of Fitzroy is free, but you need to get permission (permits). It can be obtained in El Chalten.