Tracing history through memories in Melaka

Growing up, my family and I loved the hidden spots of Malacca when we needed a change of scenery as it is only a 30 minute drive from our home town of Muara. We were often joined by family friends consisting of Hokkien aunties and uncles, Baba, Kristang and Chitti. Together we hunted for food and adventure, and did everything for good fun.

As I recall, Melaka in its earliest form in the 1980s was full of people running small businesses. Pedicabs continued to be used as a means of transport, offering a leisurely way to get around the city. There was less traffic back then, so getting around in a rickshaw was much easier, and my late father and I did it to help some of his friends or acquaintances.

A visit to Taman Buaya Melaka Crocodile Park as a school holiday trip was also a must. The park, located in the quiet suburb of Ayer Kero, has been operating since 1987. I remember fondly that the crocodiles were kept in a swampy atmosphere that almost matched their habitat. I say “love” because the memories of my mother pulling my hand away as I cried every time I left the park are still vivid in my mind.

All these sentimental memories are what kept Melaka a big part of my life.

Fast forward to today. As a big city resident, I still enjoy visiting a historic city on a day trip where I can visit a “good old friend” or enjoy a mini-trip by playing tour guide while walking with friends. Thanks to the best transport links, the city can be reached in just a couple of hours.

Melaka has undergone rapid transformation over the past ten years due to changing times. The city is not exempt from becoming a tourist destination, especially after it received UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 2008 for its long history. Take for example Kampung Morten, now located amidst modern infrastructure. What was once a sleepy settlement has now become a tourist icon and has been declared a heritage village.

My favorite time to travel around the Kampung Morten area is during the Hari Raya festival as it will be brightly lit, although it is colorful on any day. It's very easy to get to, just a 15 minute walk north of the city center and you'll find yourself in this gorgeous little village. It is also home to Villa Sentosa, one of the traditional Malay timber houses, which is open to the public as a private living museum. They display Malay costumes, furniture, embroidery, muskets and many interesting family heirlooms. Want to experience the Malay lifestyle? Homestay options are also available.

No matter where you turn, there is always a street, building or structure of historical significance.

My favorite is Jalan Tukang Emas, also known as Harmony Street, a long street that runs parallel to the famous Jonker Street and is not as busy. Here you can find three different houses of worship, which, as the name of the street suggests, have existed harmoniously for centuries. These are the Kampung Kling Mosque, Sri Poyatha Murthy Temple and Cheng Khun Teng Temple.

I often start my walk from the Sri Poyatha Murthy Temple, the oldest Hindu temple in Malaysia. A family friend once told me while sipping asam pedas sauce that this temple is one of the few existing Chitti temples in Malaysia, built by the Chitti leader Tavinayagar Chitti in 1781 after the Chitti community came to Malacca for trading.

What struck me most about the construction was the simplistic design of the temple. There are only three rows in the Sri Poyatha Murthy temple and each row depicts one god. One of the many opinions I have shared with my traveling friends is that the design was heavily influenced by the Dutch, who actually donated the plot of land on which the temple was built.

Further along the road one could find the Kampung Kling Mosque, almost hidden by a high wall, but still noticeable from afar with its tall minaret. According to my late father, the minaret was also used as a lighthouse due to its location in the Strait of Malacca. The tip of the minaret, like a pin, served as a guide for merchant ships and sailors.

My late dad loved to stop here for prayers whenever we were in town, as the "imam" was also his friend. “It’s serene inside, even though it’s right in the middle of a busy road,” he reminded five-year-old me, a little girl consumed by the fear of the old cemetery behind the mosque. It was rumored that the cemeteries were inhabited by people from Aceh and Sumatra, which may explain why the roof has a Sumatran hue, but this is just another theory of mine.

Moving further from the mosque, passing by Chinese shops selling daily necessities, one can see the majestic Cheng Hong Teng Temple, standing magnificently with its attractive decorative design. This temple was awarded the UNESCO Prize for Outstanding Architectural Restoration in 2003 and I would like to inform my fellow travelers about this. The temple is still visited to this day by devotees who flock to worship during festivals, and is also known as the Temple of the "Merciful Cloud" as it is dedicated to Kuan Yin, the goddess of mercy.

The temple was dominated by beautiful dark wooden beams and wood carvings. My Hokkien friend reported that the materials for the temple were brought from China. It was in this temple that I sat down to watch traditional Chinese opera for the first time. It is amazing to see how east and west have greatly influenced the architecture of buildings in Melaka due to its status as a major port. I believe that the city atmosphere reflects the civilization of national values.

Another interesting place among the bustle of the streets is Wah Aik Shoemaker, which I happened to visit once during one of my adventures. The family business is located in Jalan Tokong (now moved to Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lok) and what makes it special is that it is the only store that still specializes in weave shoes. These shoes originate from the Chinese tradition of foot-binding, where women wore tight shoes to achieve the perfect "golden lotus" for feet no longer than 4 inches.

What began three generations ago is still carried on by the Yeo brothers, although these days foot-bound shoes are only made for decoration or souvenir purposes, and they have also ventured into Peranakan beaded shoes, considered the finest in Melaka. I took a look at the shoemaker making shoes in the back of the store and I have to say, it's not an easy task at all! The beading has a complex design. According to the owner, his grandfather started out in a coffee shop, but after seeing the need for bound feet among Chinese women whose husbands were merchants, he took up the bandage shoe business.

It is actually an almost forgotten Portuguese settlement in Ujong Pasir known as St John Village or Kampung Portugis that I like to talk about when I talk about Malacca to my foreign friends. It is home to a small community of Portuguese settlers, the Kristang, a Creole ethnic group consisting of a mixture of Portuguese and local Melaka people.

I get excited whenever I visit Kristang as it brings back many childhood memories - a family friend who welcomed me to his humble abode in a kebaya, called "kebaya kumprido" or "Saya Comprida" in Portuguese. The famous melody of Branjo (traditional Kristang folk dance), "Jingkli Nona" is the unofficial anthem of Gente Kristang; Plays in my head as I write this down (“Jingkli nona, jinkli nona, yo kereh kazakh!”). Auntie also served us Portuguese "otak-otak" wrapped in foil, as well as fried fish with a special Portuguese spicy sauce.

Speaking of the Portuguese, visiting the ruins of St. Paul's Church at the top of St. Paul's Hill is also another favorite of mine. It was built by the Portuguese captain Duarte Coelho in gratitude to the Virgin Mary for saving his life during a storm at sea. Unlike the other historical sites mentioned above, I fondly remember the beautiful roofless church, dilapidated and covered in ferns. At the top of the steep flight of stairs, you can enjoy the cool breeze and immerse yourself in the exquisiteness of the architectural ruins, which are also remnants of the glorious Portuguese and Dutch era. I used to admire the armless statue of St. Francis Xavier that stands inside the complex, adding an eerie feel to the magnificent atmosphere. Inside the church grounds you can also find engraved tombstones on the walls that belonged to the Dutch nobility.

As I said, I'm not a big fan of cemeteries, but these epitaphs are important because they add an interesting touch to something that is already significant to Malacca's history. All these attractions epitomize what is interesting about Malaysia - its diverse people, cultures and religions that exist together; something that cannot be found elsewhere and something that is always appreciated by my family, friends and myself.

Written by: Khuraibah Zakaria