Gambia: A Country That Doesn't Pretend

If the word "Gambia" doesn't bring up any images, you're not alone. This narrow strip of land squeezed between the banks of Senegal often remains a blank spot on the map for most travelers. But that's what makes it so interesting. Gambia is one of the smallest countries in Africa, but in terms of the number of impressions per square kilometer, it easily gives many giants a run for their money.

People don't fly here for five stars or shopping. They fly here for something real. For clay houses, an old kettle on coals, for children's laughter on dusty streets. Gambia is not an exotic place created for tourists. This is Africa as it is. And if you are ready to drop your expectations and trust the road, it will reveal itself from the most amazing side.

The first thing you feel after getting off the plane in Banjul is the heat. Not just warmth, but hot, thick air in which everything seems slower. You haven’t even moved away from the stewardess with the cart, and you are already enveloped in the smell of earth, dust, cooking food and something inexplicably alive.

The airport is not striking in its modernity, but there are many smiles. It is not customary to rush here. A customs officer in uniform can first joke, then thoughtfully leaf through your passport, and then simply nod. Behind the doors there are dozens of voices, warmth, music, street bustle. It is as if you are taken out of the familiar world and gently lowered into another: with different rules, with a different pace, but with some kind of inner kindness.

The Gambia exists because of the river. Without it, there would be no towns, no villages, no life. Its waters flow slowly from east to west, and along its banks lie fields, villages, wharves and markets. You can take a boat trip here - from quiet backwaters with mangroves to dense banks where fishermen in traditional boats pull out nets to the cries of seagulls.

On the riverbank, women wash clothes, children swim, chickens run between jerry cans. Everything is simple, but not primitive - this is organic life, and you are not an outsider in it. A trip along the river is a meditation in motion. Each stop is a new story, a new face, a new smile.

Gambia is called the "land of smiles" - and this is not an advertising slogan, but a reality. People here are open and talkative. A stranger may talk to you simply because he is interested in who you are and where you are from. He will not impose a tour, will not ask for a tip. Just talk. Or maybe invite you to visit, show how to make peanut butter or offer to share sweet green tea - "atay".

In cities such as Serekunda or Georgetown, life is in full swing on the streets. Here they laugh loudly, bargain, sing, pray. Gambian culture is a mixture of traditional African heritage, Islam, remnants of the colonial past and a personal philosophy of "keep it simple". It is felt in dances, in clothes, in music, in conversations around the fire. You become part of not a showy culture, but a real, living, everyday one.

There is a pond in the village of Bakau. At first glance, it is an ordinary pond. There are crocodiles in it. Lots of them. But you can not only approach them, you can touch them. Pat them on the back, take a photo. Sounds strange? Maybe. But for the locals, this is a sacred place: they believe that crocodiles bring good luck here and even cure infertility.

And there is an altar nearby. There are amulets, notes, bunches of herbs that are left in the hope of help. This is not a show for tourists. This is part of a living faith in which Islam peacefully coexists with ancient traditions. And if you look not through the prism of skepticism, but with an open heart, you can feel the depth that is lacking in “packaged” tourism.

Gambian cuisine is about taste without pretension. Rice is the basis of almost all dishes. It is served with sauces made from fish, peanuts, and baobab leaves. The main thing is freshness and home cooking. Everything is cooked over a fire, in large pots, with love and patience.

Try "domoda" - stewed meat or fish with thick peanut sauce. "Bene chin" - rice cooked in broth with vegetables and spices. Fried bananas and mango, sliced ​​straight from the branch, are a must. And also strong green tea, which the locals prepare three times: first - "bitter as death", then - "sweet as life", and finally - "soft as love".

If you love birds, Gambia will be a paradise. More than 500 species - and all within a couple of hours from the capital. Bright, vocal, unprecedented. Even if you are not an ornithologist, just one day at dawn in the mangroves can change your perception of nature.

For those who dream of a safari - there is Abuko Nature Reserve and parks along the river. There will be no lions and elephants here, but there are monkeys, monitor lizards, crocodiles, antelopes. And most importantly - the feeling that you are not a spectator in a jeep, but a guest in a large living world.

Traveling to Gambia is not about clear routes, hourly trains and stable Wi-Fi. Here the rules are soft, the sun is harsh, and adventures begin where the usual ends. To feel confident and comfortable, you just need to prepare a little - and be ready for the fact that not everything will go according to plan. And that's okay.

First, the sun. It is bright, generous and merciless here. Even in the shade, you can easily get sunburned if you forget about sunscreen. SPF 50 is your faithful companion, especially if you plan to travel through open spaces, boat excursions or long walks through the markets. Panama, light long clothes and a bottle of water in a backpack are not a tourist fetish, but a real way to survive until dinner without overheating.

Second, transport and time. Everything works in Gambia, but not always as you expect. A taxi can arrive an hour late, a bus may not go at all. But instead of being annoyed, it’s better to accept it as part of the culture: no one is in a hurry here. And if you’re ready to let go of control, the other side of the journey will open up. People will help, give advice, give you a ride if needed — and most likely with a smile.

Power can go out. The Internet is slow, especially outside of major cities. This is not a bug, it’s a feature. Take an external battery with you and download the necessary maps in advance. Or better yet, look around more often, not at the screen.

The food is tasty, but not always familiar. The local cuisine is hearty and quite spicy. If you’re not sure, ask if it’s okay to have it “not spicy.” Drink only bottled water, wash or peel fruits. And don’t forget that antibacterial wipes are a universal thing.

Safety is one of the pleasant surprises of Gambia. The country is considered one of the calmest in the region. Of course, basic precautions are needed, as everywhere: do not leave things unattended, avoid dark streets at night, do not carry all your money at once. But in general, you are in a friendly and hospitable environment.

And, perhaps, the most important thing is the internal setting. Do not expect Europe in Africa. Do not compare. Gambia does not want to be "like somewhere else". It is its own. With noisy markets, sandy roads, crowing roosters, endless conversations and good chaos. And if you allow yourself to dissolve in this, it will truly open up.

Gambia is a country that does not pretend. Here you will not be entertained, deceived or wrapped in foil. But they will show you how to be real, generous, simple. And if you are not looking for comfort, but contact - with people, with nature, with something very alive - it will give you this. Maybe even more than you expected.